FAMiliarize yourself.

Every time you are sent to a new region with Backroads you a few days (in my case 4) when you are paid to go see the area. We call it our FAM. It's a lot of driving (you drive all the routes you will be biking and try to take notes), and meeting subcontractors (or knocking on their doors with no answer), and seeing hotels and restaurants, and pretty much asking everyone where their bathroom is, not because you need to use it but you have to be able to tell your guests. You basically want to finish your FAM and be able to visualize the whole trip so that you can BS the first one you lead and the guests will all think you have done it before.

Unfortunately for me, it rained tropical storm style rain for the first 2 days. That's always exciting. But after the rain stopped (and I got my rental car towed out of the mud puddle it was stuck in) I finally fell in love with Croatia. Truth be told, I was on the fence. I'm not sure why but it was starting to feel like one of those places that people talk about and I just look around and think I don't get it. Don't get me wrong. It's beautiful! But there are a lot of beautiful places in the world with good food and friendly people (see Ireland posts). Then I was driving through Korcula (the 3rd island we visit) and it hit me. Holy crap. I get it. This place ROCKS!

Love at second sight...or third. 6 ferries and about 30 hours of driving later...I get it. The history is fascinating and the crystal clear water is intoxicating. It was not built to accommodate tourists, or cars or convenience. It was built for agriculture and family and, in the major cities, defense. They were at war only 20 years ago. I would have been 10 when Dubrovnik was bombed by the neighboring Serbs and the former Yugoslavia (from whom they were seeking independence). I can not fathom that. These people are strong and resilient and defiant. If they aren't overly friendly to make me feel better, well...that's just fine. I got over it.

I ordered "salt fish" one night. Thinking I like fish and I LOVE salt. Sounds good! Yeah. Sardines, whole sardines. Lesson 1: Every time you order fish here it's the whole fish: head, skin, bones and all. I think it's looking at me.

Lesson 2: The roads have very few guardrails and big cliffs or water right next to the edge. This is the definition of a blind curve: go around the fortress wall praying there is no one on the other side and don't drive off into the water. This is a main road. The only road actually. All the little towns make you do a quick second guessing of directions when you feel like you are driving on the sidewalk.