Moving movies

Pretend you live in a small town in Ireland and there is no movie cinema, but you really want to watch the latest and greatest film with all the hottest stars. Do you:

A) drive 40 minutes to the closest town with a theatre.

B) rent a movie from the local photo-developing/dry cleaners/video rental and pretend they have an awesome selection that will surely satisfy your cravings for drama.

C) wait for the Mobile Cinema to come to town and watch Inception!!

C! C! Pick C!!!

Last night was once again an amazing only-in-Ireland experience. Siofra and I walked through town then went down to the moving cinema to buy our tickets in advance before loading up on snacks at the SuperValu (grocery). Of course they don't actually give you a ticket, the guy at the front just said, "yea. I know yer face." Ok. Grand.

Concessions don't exist at the mobile cinema so you get to go grocery shopping and bring in whatever you want, including beer! I didn't actually do this because I'm still on a drug-treatment program (treating my infection with drugs!) but others did and they didn't get in trouble. We chose crisps (potato chips for americans) and soda. YES! True couch potato success!

The seats were surprising comfortable and it's small enough that there's really no bad seat in the house. My knees did hit the seat in front of me, so I suggest an aisle for all those tall folks out there. Otherwise, brilliant!

It helps that the movie was good. Two thumbs up from Siofra and I. Not that I would be a good critic by any stretch of the imagination because I tend to like all movies and I have not been to a movie since Coraline came out, but this one was particularly good in an Eternal Sunshine/Vanilla Sky kind of weird. Makes you think. Maybe a little too hard. My brain hurts.

It was also just bizarre to leave with a full moon and "creepy Kenmare" in full effect. See all the pictures here for more proof.

Set dancing

I have been a little under the weather over here in Ireland with a fever and infection and now I'm finally back on my feet, but still on antibiotics so there is no drinking allowed and I can't say I have a ton of energy. Despite these minor details I really wanted to get out of the house last night (3 days no exercise = major cabin fever). Scott agreed.



A long time ago a local in town told me about the set dancing that takes place at The Atlantic bar every Sunday night. She told me that people get all dressed up and they even bus in from Black Valley! Woo hoo! So Black Valley is rumored to be the last place in Ireland to get electricity (in 1977) but the first to get the internet (in 2002?). Intriguing. I want to see these people! AND I want to see them dance! Not to mention, the local who recommended I go is also about 86, spends half her time in Barcelona, and made her now husband court her for a few months (and spend about 10,000 euro) before she agreed to date him because she "needn't any men's shirts to iron". Fiesty.




Set dancing is like square dancing. Traditional. Generally the music could be anything but it is often either polka-ish or johnny cash.

I had never been to the Atlantic and it was awesome! It felt like I stepped into a time warp and came out in 1958 Reno, NV. Neon green lights highlight the fake folliage at the top of the walls and the mirror behind the bar leaves you guessing: does the bar continue around to the other side? Not to mention the long plush red couches full of folks gussied up for the affair. The lady who played the keyboard (and guitar, cause god forbid you play only one instrument in this country) reminded me an awful lot of Marty and Bobbie Culp, the middle school music teachers from SNL.

I love the irish people. The are not pretentious. They could actually care less what you think. Although I did feel a little silly taking pictures in a place that is so sincerely "locals only". (Thus, no flash...sorry) My favorite thing has got to be the cross-generational pub scene. It is so easy and comfortable. Kids are not ashamed to be hanging out and talking to their parents or grandparents or grandparents friends. It is normal and I appreciate the honesty.

As usual the pub can be quieted by a ballad. I know you can't see him well, just listen. Yes, it is english. And this young man is probably 20 at best. Declan Finnegan's nephew. (Give me a few more months and I'll know his whole life story. Him and every other person in this town.) This could happen anywhere at any time. Normally they don't have a mic, but the impact is about the same. Everyone quiets for a beautiful voice.

(If you can't see the videos very well, try to view them on my flickr account instead. There's also another video of them playing Johnny Cash and quite a packed dance floor...if you can see it.)

She works hard for her money

Backroads is an interesting job. You work hard. You work very hard, and at the end of the day you hope that the guests you have been leading around see that and appreciate that and report that it was their best vacation ever. Seriously, that's what we strive for: the best vacation EVER.

Kenmare: Where we stay our last two days. Also where the leaders live when we are off work.

Every guest has the opportunity at the end of their trip to rate you on a 1-10 scale. The backroads leader's average (that's a "C") is 9.6. If you get an 8 that's something they might want to look into: "what happened? was there a problem? did everything go ok?" We strive for perfection daily then kick ourselves if it doesn't work out that way. We pick everything apart down to the tiniest detail: what rooms they have at night, where they sat in the van, did they get enough face time, did they get good seats for the cultural events that we hosted, did they like the snacks we put out for their hike, did they get their coffee by 6am despite the hotel not putting it out before 7? Someone mentions in passing that they used to ride horses and by the next day we have slipped a piece of paper into their hand providing the name and number of some stables near our hotel on day 3 should they choose to opt out of the hike. Options. It's all about options.

Devin (my co-leader) and I after the second day hike by the ice cream truck. Yum.

At the end of it all you are pretty exhausted mentally. Most of the time your tips reflect that they had a good time, but sometimes they do not. I recently got an email from a former guest with several links to her photos and a photo book that she had put together. It was so great to see the vacation from the guest point of view!

The forth day hike past Torc Waterfall and onward to Derrycunnihy Church.

This family was one of the greatest I've worked with yet. She and her husband were celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary and their son was celebrating his 22nd birthday. On the "on your own dinner" night we took their son out so they could do some celebrating on their own and little did we know he had a few pints before meeting up with us for dinner on his own. Several hours later Devin, Matt (the son) and I are all out at Crowley's (one of our favorite local pubs) and Matt is not looking so good. Long story short his parents and 2 other couples come in so proud that they "found" us. It was pretty hilarious. We had to assure his mom that we did not give him that much beer and she said, "oh please, I know. I know my son." After that we could all just laugh a little and it made their vacation that much better that they "busted the kids partying". The next day I also had to drive everyone to the trailhead (this was a walking trip) then come back to the hotel to collect him (since he over slept) and then drive him out to the picnic spot (half hour each way) where he could continue to sleep it off a little while I prepared lunch.

Matt, Devin and I after we'd been "busted" by Matt's mom.

The email I got from her with these pictures spoke of their vacation being seamless and how we really raised the bar for what they expect from a vacation now. We "made" the trip for them and that is something to be proud of. We provided their best vacation EVER and had a blast doing it! Here are some pictures from a guest's point of view:

Where we stay the first and second night: The Carrig House

The second day hike: Windy Gap. Need proof? Look at my hair.

Where we stay the third night: The Killarney Park Hotel

And the last two nights: The Park Hotel Kenmare. This is their dog. He doesn't have a name.

Saying farewell to the gang on a van drive day. Before I had to go collect Matt.

Post trip high five.