6.12.2010

Bike on

Continuing with my biking "fam" I got a ride from Scott down to Kinsale on Wednesday and had a nice long lunch then started the solo adventures again.

I started with the loop we do on the very first day of the ride (about 60km), then biked to Baltimore the next day (another 100k) then got up the next morning took a nice walk out to the Beacon, caught the ferry to Schull ("skull") then got back on the bike headed for Ballylicky (my last 70km). That's about 330km in 4 days including my loop through Healy's pass. Tired. Therefore I'm going to write some captions and you can look at pictures. Enjoy.
Moo cows. Everywhere. Always.
It was really rainy and COLD the first day. Much colder than the loop I did Tuesday. Borderline miserable, but if I focused on the beauty around me I did ok.
The Atlantic. From the other side. I've seen it (of course) from port, but there's something about the beach that makes me think OCEAN. I paused to just sit in the rain and watch the waves right here.
Day 2. Sunshine! Swans everywhere. So pretty.
Lunchtime overlooking the water. On my way to Baltimore.
Day 3. This is from the Ferry, but it is the Beacon walk I did earlier in the morning. If you look closely you can see the white tower at the edge. That's the beacon. Nothing like hiking around on a cliff ledge with no rails.
A shark! We saw several from the ferry and it looks far, but that is a camera trick. It was pretty close to the boat. You can see how big it is if you look for its white head.
I rode up and over a hill then out and around the water. I can not get over how clear the water is here. It is amazing! I guess that is what happens when you don't pollute your waterways with industrial run off.
The green and the blue. Ireland in a nut shell.
I have not been taking my "real" camera out because I am worried about the rain. I'm sure I'll get over it eventually and I will likely take it hiking with me. But for now the polaroids will have to do. You can see more of my adventure here.

My first metric cetury

But far from the last! Almost every day on our biking trips there is an option for the 30, 60 or 100km ride. The one leader runs van support and shuttle and the other is on the long option running "sweep", scooping up the rider on the backside of the group. Bring it on! Here's how the first 100k came about this week:
I got my summer schedule and I will be leading hiking/walking and biking trips here in Ireland through August. VERY exciting. There are only 3 of us in the house which has its pros and cons. It will be fun to have a close knit group, but it's a bit of a bummer that on weeks off you are the only person around. Then again, I could really enjoy the break from people to do whatever I want on my days off. I've also just met a few girls in town who are awesome. The one has been friends with Backroads leaders for years. She's a bit of a liason and fills us in on all the gossip with the locals. She also knows ALL the jargon and lingo for the job, including our neverending acronyms and abbreviations. It's pretty funny to hear someone out of the company give you advice about work. Good advice too!
SO on my schedule I have 3 "shadow" days scheduled (where I will essentially hide from the guests but try to watch as much as possible as the experienced leaders run a trip). The trip I am shadowing is one of the "premiere inn biking" trips. I am also scheduled 3 "fam" days so I can familiarize myself with the area and the routes. I start those on Tuesday or Wednesday and I will be fam-ing the "premiere inn hiking/walking" trip. Then next week I lead my first trip (hiking) with Scott!
I decided this is a good amount of training, but I also wanted to fam the biking trip. I will be leading both I wanted to fam both. Last week I was still technically off work, but hit to road so I could learn the rides in advance.
I knew I would enjoy some time on the bike no matter what, but I thought it would still feel like I was working. Not true. Biking, stopping to meet a cafe owner, biking some more then stopping for lunch in the next big town is far from work. I think it will be the guests that make it challenging!
This route is extraordinary. I thought it was beautiful from the very start, but the kind of beauty I am used to just out the backdoor in Portland. Then it started getting a little more out there...suddenly I was biking up a narrow road with rock gardens and green, green grass and sheep grazing all along the sides. I quickly realized I was no longer in Portland.
I love this picture because I had just finished a pretty decent climb and the clouds seemed to match the road. Pick your path...blue skies or thunderstorms. I thought I picked the blue skies, but by the time I reached the fishing town at the bottom of the hill (Castletownbere) it was pouring! I was drenched and the roads were washed out in sections (up to the drive train on my bike) but it was GORGEOUS!

It was still pretty warm and I knew I was headed home to warm shower so it just didn't seem too bad. Not to mention the greens just get more green when there is dark grey above. The heavy rains also made the waterfalls that much more evident. All the streams and run off from the hillside join up and cascade down the large granite boulders. Amazing.
Healy's Pass was the highlight of the trip. I wish I had more pictures, but I'll try to take more next time. It is a long gradual climb with big, horseshoe switchbacks with open range cattle and sheep everywhere. Sweeping up to the climax (marked by Jesus...of course) then the other side opens up to a stunning view of the bay and ocean with a green hill speckled by lavendar colored rhodedendrons.
The ride closes out with one more sweep along the coast just to remind you how beautiful the water can be close up. Stellar.
You can see more (iPhone-style) photos here.

6.06.2010

Sunshine and happiness

I'm sorry for the consistent trend of no posts then multiple posts. I have been waiting for a good rainy day to sit and write, but fortunately and unfortunately I have not had one. Besides, time with friends is always better than time at the computer.
I would love to put together a slide show of all the fun I had in Norway, but I gave up those abilities when I got my mini-computer. So just scroll through flickr and maybe sing a little song to yourself while you do it. Maybe this one.
Here are some things I learned about Norway, in no particular order:
1. Ginger is amazing. Which I knew, but it was a good refresher course. She does however speak Norwegian like a cartoon character (or so they say) and she is a little dangerous on a bike. She is also the most generous friend I could ever ask for and took care of me the whole time I was there. I heart GLR.

2. Kayla, her roommate, is another incredible lady and a great babysitter. While Ginger was working (to support her lame friend), Kayla stepped up and got me out and about. And as you can see she is a wonderful canonballer! She may look a little scared, but she's squelchin' it hard!

3. Abbreviations are everywhere when you are hanging out with Ginge. It's a little hard to keep up at times. My favorite: spark wat (aka sparkling water). It's funny cause it's truuuuue.
4. The majority of Norwegians speak excellent english. Probably better english than most Americans. BUT they do not like to use it. There is a bit of debate as to why: some of them said it is a pride thing, others said it is because they are self-conscious. Regardless, if you are the only non-Norwegian at the table, don't expect them to speak engligh just to include you in conversation. Ginger's closest friends were a definite exception to this rule and very fun to talk to.
5. The Rockabilly scene is huge in Oslo. Think 50s vintage and lots of it. Pinned hair, leather jackets, rolled tight jeans...amazing.
6. Contrary to no. 5 many people also love death metal. One bar even had a sign up for Death Jazz. I would have liked to see what that was all about.
7. It is still light outside at 11pm and then the sun "sets" (which means twilight blue not pitch black) for an hour or two and then it comes back up. This can really mess with your head!
8. As soon as it gets sunny and warm the locals lose all inhibition. They drink like little fishes and go to the park to work on their "tan"...which they do in their bra and underwear. No swim suits. Just skivvies. This is apparently quite different from the winter Norwegian style which is a bit more reserved. They also don't wear sunscreen.
9. Almost everyone is pretty. Even the not so pretty people are prettier here than the prettiest people in most other places. The top of the spectrum folks should just be supermodels. Ginger and Kayla fit right in!
10. Norway is gorgeous. We didn't get too far out of the city, but the penninsula was a great little get away.
11. I love having friends that I can just play with. We spent hours at the pool just goofing off and having FUN. Not to mention all the biking around and sitting and chatting. It is so healthy to have people you can really laugh with. No questions, no judgements, just being yourself and having fun! I love it!
Norway was the best detour ever. It was good for my soul and a wonderful break from thinking about the new gig. It is easy for me to just keep chugging along, barreling away at 100kph, but sometimes I need a good friend (like my little Ginge) to pull the brake and make me stop for a minute. I left for Provence with very little notice and then I jumped right into training and reading about the job and working in the warehouse. Norway was time OFF. It was a good reminder to take time for me and not lose myself while trying to please others. A good lesson to take to heart as I start up here in Ireland.

Now if you'll excuse me I have some reading to do. Break's over.
THANK YOU GINGER!!!

Close call

What I failed to mention about my Sunday in Paris was that I almost missed my flight to Norway. It went a little something like this:

Shuttle to leave for Beauvais airport (in the middle of no where) leaves at 13:30. I start my day wandering at about 11. Plenty of time...
12:40 Realize that it took about 45 minutes to cover the same amount of ground (1 inch on my map) when it previously took me 5. Debate the metro, but decide it would take me longer to figure out HOW than to just start hoofin it.
13:05 Walking past the Eiffel Tower- took my tourist picture while still in motion.
13:10 Dodging vendors at the Palais de Chaillot seriously contemplate an ice cream cone.
13:18 Navigate the largest round-a-bout EVER to choose the correct and most direct street to the shuttle. Veto the Arc de Triomphe Etoile...there's no time!
13:20 Stressing out and start walking faster
13:23 Start jogging and consequesntly get dirty looks. Drop back to the fastest walking speed possible.
13:30 I can SEE the shuttles! Decide to play frogger with traffic instead of going AROUND the second largest round-a-bout in the world. Get more dirty looks.
13:33 Made it to the ticket counter and the shuttle left on time. 3 minutes ago.
13:35 Learn from the sweet girl at the ticket counter that a taxi would cost me about 130-180 euro. Take a gamble and buy my 14 euro ticket for the next shuttle.
13:37 Start the LONGEST 5o minute wait of my life.
14:18 Bus pulls up
14:21 Successfully jockey for a spot at the front of the line so I can get in the front row with chuckling from the driver who knows my story.
14:31 Bus pulls out.
14:37 Close eyes.
14:43 Open eyes again in a panic...what time is it?!
15:37 Pull up to the airport. JUMP off the shuttle and RUN inside...so I can wait in line.
15:47 Passport check and check-in complete! Last check-in time 15:50.
15:55 Through security after setting off the metal detector with my scattered mind and pocket change. At the gate! Blisters burning.
I should also mention that when I got into Paris the day before I fell asleep on the train but the last stop ended up putting me closer than where I should have gotten off. A welcomed mistake. I've got some good guardian angels out there. Lucky, lucky, lucky.

American in Paris

One day in Paris. Not even a day really. I took the train to Paris last Saturday so I could leave my bag with a friend and avoid the insane baggage fees that accompany Ryan Air's cheap flights.
I got into town and had a lovely dinner with Beth, another new Backroads leader, and then we wandered down to a party at her friend's house. I've been wishing lately that I had a smaller camera. I LOVE MY CAMERA, buuuuuuut...sometimes she's just a little bulky and people give you funny looks when you pull out this massive lens to shoot an average picture. Anyway, I didn't have it with me and regret it still. Her friend is an expat and the apartment was gorgeous. Surprisingly, no one spoke french. They are capable, but chose english. Likely because I was not the only one from another country so english was what ties us all together. Commonality. There were several other Americans, one lady from Germany, one from Holland, two people from Morrocco, and one from Argentina. You would think that would be an amazing cultural mix full of great conversation, but it was fairly bland small talk about 85% of the time. Sorry...but it's true. Ah...the corporate influence. It just makes everything a little less exciting.
HOWEVER, there was a rooftop terrace. It had a view of the entire city. The Tour Eiffel, Sacre Coeur, Place de la Republique and the Pantheon each well lit and marking the four directions of the city from where we were: smack dab in the middle. It was breathtaking to look out and see that the city isn't actually all that big. Then I mentally zoomed in even closer looked at my immediate surroundings: the tin rooftops were glistening with the moonlight and misty rain and the clay chimneys were dry in contrast. The lines and texture and feel are ingrained in my mind forever. And THAT is why I regret not taking my camera.
It was cold in color and composition but somehow still conveyed warmth and romance. In that moment of observation I determined that I love Paris. I get it. Everyone talks about how amazing Paris is and I think I was subsequently thinking it may be overrated, but it is NOT. They are right.
When you look around you can just feel the history and the romance. You can sit at a cafe on the street and just watch the people go by for hours. I love the public affection. To those people there is nothing in the world except the person directly in front of them. That is passion! Living in the moment! Impressive. It makes you want to walk the streets hand in hand with the person you love the most, more than anywhere else I've been.
Sunday was a bit chilly and rainy, but I still took my whirlwind tour. I followed my not-to-scale map around town on the tourist trap circuit, briefly looking at each monument, building and museum so I could check it off the list. I was a real American experience. I know that sometimes 2 seconds somewhere is better than not seeing it at all, but I still enjoyed my cafe on the corner much more than buzzing in and out of places where you could and should spend days. Next time I'll plan more than a morning to see Paris. A real visit to the city of love.
Want to see some more of my first impressions? Click here!