Taking Europe by storm

I'm a mover and shaker. It's what I do. I am always on the go and even when I have a day off I like to be getting things checked off a to do list. That is why when I go on vacation I like to sit. Do nothing. Relax.

Dylan came to visit me in Europe and sitting was noptional. (yes, that is a word. A good friend of mine just happened to make it up. Just like ginormous. Both words.) We didn't stop moving! We just kept going and every place we went was as cool if not cooler than the last stop. If I recount it all I will be here writing for about 12 hours and you will sit there reading for about 6, so here is the general story of my adventure with Dylan:

He flew into Cork (via Paris via Amsterdam) on Thursday and I was still "on trip". Luckily one of the Brazillians that was supposed to be on the trip no-showed at the last minute because "she fell in love and went to Greece" SO we bought her (already reserved) hotel room. Thank you Mara. The next day Dylan went on a ride and I finished the trip. He experienced a real Ireland traffic jam.

We then drove back to Kenmare along the coast in a roundabout fashion where we got to reload all the bikes and pack up the storage unit before going out with Siofra. When all was said and done we were travelling with a very full "unit" (van + trailer + 35 bikes + about 5-10 thousand dollars in other equipment). No biggie. After a pancake breakfast with Siofra and dropping off the recyclng we were off for France! One 18 hour ferry ride later we got into Roscoff an started our drive to Mont St Michel, a very cool bbey that is completely surrounded by water when tide is high and beach when tide is low. Apparently one of the parking lots even floods. Yikes! Unit underwater...no thank you.

We drove on to Nantes that night then hit the road early for Arcachon (on the west coast) the following morning. We did a run on the beach adn workout on the pier then had pizza to counteract any good that we may have done. In the morning we went to Le Dune du Pilat, the largest sand dune in Europe. It is actually swollowing the forest and moving eastward at an alarming rate.

We stayed just outside Toulouse that night right next to Space City and Dylan was most entertained by the fact that our shower head had a neon light and lit up and changed color when it had water going through it. Classy place. We drove into Pernes-les-fontaines the next days to return the unit to the warehouse. Good riddence!

I had to unload the unit the next day so Dylan rode up Mt Ventoux. It's a rite of passage around here. You may remember when I did it (begrudgingly) in May. Unfortunately the weather wasn't full cooperating so he had to ride up into a low lying cloud and almost froze to death. Oops.

I made up for it the next day with a ride into the Gorge. By made up for it I mean it was HOT. A long sweaty ride...but GORGEous! That night we had pizza again (I see a trend here) where we watched the little girl at the table next to us feed the restaurant cat all her mussels while dad talked on his cell phone.

We were scheduled to pick up the rental car in Avignon the next day so we caught a bus down then drove out to see Pont du Gard. It's a Roman aqueduct. Whatever that means...God forbid one of the informational displays, or the movie, or the museum actually explain that minor detail. Today was the day that Dylan fell in love with Orangina. We also had to move hotels, but it worked out great because I got really sick (24 hour stomach bug) and was down for the count (again!) with a fever. I slept a while and Dylan went down to join the owners as well as some other guests on the porch for a sing-a-long and home-made liquors. It was one of the best times I have ever had with a fever just laying there and listening to them all sing and laugh out the window. At least 3 different languages were being spoken, but they made it work.

On to Geneva! My good friend Jessie is studying there for the next two years so we thought we woud take her to college. You know, just like dad. Car packed to the bursting point with 3 people and a LOT of stuff (including a bike) we hit the road. That night we walked into town and Dylan ordered a mystery beer. Turns out he bought a whiskey flavored malt liquor. After conversion that beer only cost him about $7. It was delicious! Maybe next time we'll stick to what we know. We also rediscovered merry-go-rounds and I finally got my hair cut (4 inches off and it's still long).

Mt Blanc was tempting us from the distance so we cruised on over to Chamonix. This was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip for me. Dylan was so brave (considering he is not fond of heights) and the three of us piled into a gondola headed to Italy. It passes over a huge glacier and you can see all the alpinists climbing to summit Mont Blanc. It was extraordinary. One of the most beautiful things I've seen in my entire life. Coming back we got off at the half-way point and hiked back down to a train that brounght us back into town where we bought ridiculously overpriced cheese (fondue) and Jessie was chastized by the waitress for wanting to pack up her leftovers. Not so subtle french scoff.

Not satisfied with just a half hour in Italy, Dylan and I continued on to Torino via Alp D'Huez (another section of the Tour de France). Talk about switchbacks! It was definitely warmer than Ventoux and more of a tourist town at the top instead of barren. Otherwise, very similar.

Torino was very lively. The drivers were insanely aggressive. We actually watched a guy pull a u-turn in front of us after he decided he did not want to exit the roundabout. He Austin Powers-ed his car so he was perpendicular to the spot he was occupying then honked his horn at the car in the lane next to him until he was so infuriated he took off his seat belt ready to get out of the car...then traffic moved and the other guy was able to pull forward to let him through. I mean, how dare he not leave space for him to squeeze out!

Gelato is fantastic and apertivos are not to be missed! (Apertivos = the free buffet they give you when you buy drinks around 7 or 8...happy hour Italian style. Free dinner if you're a cheap American. Which we are.) Dylan also found a speedo at a vintage shop with the tags still on. Stay tuned.

Woke up with a craving for sunshine. French Riviera? Why not. We thought about Nice, but heard mixed reviews. Cannes was the perfect spot. Just off the highway for an easy get away in the morning and smaller than Nice but equally interesting. We played at the beach, found a super cheap place to stay, had dinner at the park (picnic style) then ate dessert on a patio on this small street near the hotel. We watched these guys do Capoiera- random and awesome! I wish he had a better video because the one guy was literally doing flips higher than the awning on a sloping, cobblestone, alley size street!

Back to Avignon to catch the train. Last stop Paris. Never enough time...always wishing for just one more day.

Farewell Scotty.

So like all good things, even my summer in Ireland must come to an end. After being knocked on my ass by a kidney infection for a few days I finally got back in the saddle (literally) and did one final ride with Scotty up and over Caha Pass. Truly one of my favorite rides!

Then we enjoyed some of the freshest mussels to be had on this little green island at Teddy O'Sullivan's in Kilmackalogue. Here's the view from our little picnic table. They pretty much just scoop them up right out there and bring them to your table. YUM.

One more trip to lead and I'm headed back to France (with Dylan!!! YEAH!!!)

More photos here.

Moving movies

Pretend you live in a small town in Ireland and there is no movie cinema, but you really want to watch the latest and greatest film with all the hottest stars. Do you:

A) drive 40 minutes to the closest town with a theatre.

B) rent a movie from the local photo-developing/dry cleaners/video rental and pretend they have an awesome selection that will surely satisfy your cravings for drama.

C) wait for the Mobile Cinema to come to town and watch Inception!!

C! C! Pick C!!!

Last night was once again an amazing only-in-Ireland experience. Siofra and I walked through town then went down to the moving cinema to buy our tickets in advance before loading up on snacks at the SuperValu (grocery). Of course they don't actually give you a ticket, the guy at the front just said, "yea. I know yer face." Ok. Grand.

Concessions don't exist at the mobile cinema so you get to go grocery shopping and bring in whatever you want, including beer! I didn't actually do this because I'm still on a drug-treatment program (treating my infection with drugs!) but others did and they didn't get in trouble. We chose crisps (potato chips for americans) and soda. YES! True couch potato success!

The seats were surprising comfortable and it's small enough that there's really no bad seat in the house. My knees did hit the seat in front of me, so I suggest an aisle for all those tall folks out there. Otherwise, brilliant!

It helps that the movie was good. Two thumbs up from Siofra and I. Not that I would be a good critic by any stretch of the imagination because I tend to like all movies and I have not been to a movie since Coraline came out, but this one was particularly good in an Eternal Sunshine/Vanilla Sky kind of weird. Makes you think. Maybe a little too hard. My brain hurts.

It was also just bizarre to leave with a full moon and "creepy Kenmare" in full effect. See all the pictures here for more proof.

Set dancing

I have been a little under the weather over here in Ireland with a fever and infection and now I'm finally back on my feet, but still on antibiotics so there is no drinking allowed and I can't say I have a ton of energy. Despite these minor details I really wanted to get out of the house last night (3 days no exercise = major cabin fever). Scott agreed.



A long time ago a local in town told me about the set dancing that takes place at The Atlantic bar every Sunday night. She told me that people get all dressed up and they even bus in from Black Valley! Woo hoo! So Black Valley is rumored to be the last place in Ireland to get electricity (in 1977) but the first to get the internet (in 2002?). Intriguing. I want to see these people! AND I want to see them dance! Not to mention, the local who recommended I go is also about 86, spends half her time in Barcelona, and made her now husband court her for a few months (and spend about 10,000 euro) before she agreed to date him because she "needn't any men's shirts to iron". Fiesty.




Set dancing is like square dancing. Traditional. Generally the music could be anything but it is often either polka-ish or johnny cash.

I had never been to the Atlantic and it was awesome! It felt like I stepped into a time warp and came out in 1958 Reno, NV. Neon green lights highlight the fake folliage at the top of the walls and the mirror behind the bar leaves you guessing: does the bar continue around to the other side? Not to mention the long plush red couches full of folks gussied up for the affair. The lady who played the keyboard (and guitar, cause god forbid you play only one instrument in this country) reminded me an awful lot of Marty and Bobbie Culp, the middle school music teachers from SNL.

I love the irish people. The are not pretentious. They could actually care less what you think. Although I did feel a little silly taking pictures in a place that is so sincerely "locals only". (Thus, no flash...sorry) My favorite thing has got to be the cross-generational pub scene. It is so easy and comfortable. Kids are not ashamed to be hanging out and talking to their parents or grandparents or grandparents friends. It is normal and I appreciate the honesty.

As usual the pub can be quieted by a ballad. I know you can't see him well, just listen. Yes, it is english. And this young man is probably 20 at best. Declan Finnegan's nephew. (Give me a few more months and I'll know his whole life story. Him and every other person in this town.) This could happen anywhere at any time. Normally they don't have a mic, but the impact is about the same. Everyone quiets for a beautiful voice.

(If you can't see the videos very well, try to view them on my flickr account instead. There's also another video of them playing Johnny Cash and quite a packed dance floor...if you can see it.)

She works hard for her money

Backroads is an interesting job. You work hard. You work very hard, and at the end of the day you hope that the guests you have been leading around see that and appreciate that and report that it was their best vacation ever. Seriously, that's what we strive for: the best vacation EVER.

Kenmare: Where we stay our last two days. Also where the leaders live when we are off work.

Every guest has the opportunity at the end of their trip to rate you on a 1-10 scale. The backroads leader's average (that's a "C") is 9.6. If you get an 8 that's something they might want to look into: "what happened? was there a problem? did everything go ok?" We strive for perfection daily then kick ourselves if it doesn't work out that way. We pick everything apart down to the tiniest detail: what rooms they have at night, where they sat in the van, did they get enough face time, did they get good seats for the cultural events that we hosted, did they like the snacks we put out for their hike, did they get their coffee by 6am despite the hotel not putting it out before 7? Someone mentions in passing that they used to ride horses and by the next day we have slipped a piece of paper into their hand providing the name and number of some stables near our hotel on day 3 should they choose to opt out of the hike. Options. It's all about options.

Devin (my co-leader) and I after the second day hike by the ice cream truck. Yum.

At the end of it all you are pretty exhausted mentally. Most of the time your tips reflect that they had a good time, but sometimes they do not. I recently got an email from a former guest with several links to her photos and a photo book that she had put together. It was so great to see the vacation from the guest point of view!

The forth day hike past Torc Waterfall and onward to Derrycunnihy Church.

This family was one of the greatest I've worked with yet. She and her husband were celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary and their son was celebrating his 22nd birthday. On the "on your own dinner" night we took their son out so they could do some celebrating on their own and little did we know he had a few pints before meeting up with us for dinner on his own. Several hours later Devin, Matt (the son) and I are all out at Crowley's (one of our favorite local pubs) and Matt is not looking so good. Long story short his parents and 2 other couples come in so proud that they "found" us. It was pretty hilarious. We had to assure his mom that we did not give him that much beer and she said, "oh please, I know. I know my son." After that we could all just laugh a little and it made their vacation that much better that they "busted the kids partying". The next day I also had to drive everyone to the trailhead (this was a walking trip) then come back to the hotel to collect him (since he over slept) and then drive him out to the picnic spot (half hour each way) where he could continue to sleep it off a little while I prepared lunch.

Matt, Devin and I after we'd been "busted" by Matt's mom.

The email I got from her with these pictures spoke of their vacation being seamless and how we really raised the bar for what they expect from a vacation now. We "made" the trip for them and that is something to be proud of. We provided their best vacation EVER and had a blast doing it! Here are some pictures from a guest's point of view:

Where we stay the first and second night: The Carrig House

The second day hike: Windy Gap. Need proof? Look at my hair.

Where we stay the third night: The Killarney Park Hotel

And the last two nights: The Park Hotel Kenmare. This is their dog. He doesn't have a name.

Saying farewell to the gang on a van drive day. Before I had to go collect Matt.

Post trip high five.

Homeward bound

Nothing like a music festival to inspire a very short but sweet visit home! I finished a trip on Friday afternoon and packed up all my stuff then returned a rental car for one of my co-leaders in Cork that evening. Got a hotel room at the Cork International Airport Hotel (which happens to look like a space station) and then stayed up a few more hours, crossed my fingers and set the alarm for a whopping 3 hours of sleep. 4am (Ireland time) woke up, stumbled around the room and took a shower

4:30am took the shuttle over to the airport and got checked in

5am strolled through the duty free shop where I deliriously decided a bottle of Bushmills Black Bush whiskey would be a good anniversary gift for Dylan.

12:30pm (Portland time) finally landed at PDX after a short lay over in Amsterdam where they confiscated and poured out my anniversary present then frisked me (all part of the normal screening) and reboarded us on a gigantic plane so that we could sit on the runway for an hour. Not that it mattered to me. I was sleeping. That's right. Already. Even before take off. I was out. Cold. Then, of course, after we did conclude our 11 hour flight with a safe landing we had to wait another 15 minutes for US customs to be prepared for us. Really? I kind of thought that extra hour and a half it took for me to get here would be enough time to get ready.

12:45pm collected by my dear friends Julie and Brent who graciously drove circles around the airport for said hour and a half and then took me home to shower and change into some more music festival appropriate clothing. And yes, mom, I know how hippie I look, but where else can I get away with it?! I now chauffeur rich people around Ireland. I can play dress up if I want to while I'm home.

The look on Dylan's poor unsuspecting face was priceless. He was legitimately confused for another 30 minutes or so and then it finally started sinking in. I apparently ruined his plans for a grand "welcome home" at the airport, but who needs flowers when you have good music and camping? Pickathon was wonderful as always although I didn't dance near as much as I normally do. Stupid jet lag. Happy to just relax with Dylan instead.

Monday night we had a few folks over to the house and I was finally starting to feel less jet lagged. I think I fully recovered by Tuesday and we went to dinner then saw a show at Alberta Street Pub featuring friends of ours and Langhorne Slim. It was fantastic. Wednesday we went to dinner with Ric (Dylan's dad), Marley (Dylan's sister), Kyle (my sister) and Nate (my sister's other half) to Apizza Scholls. If you live in Portland and have not been there yet, you are missing out. Go now and order an It's It. You will thank me later.

Thursday came too fast and I was back on a plane to Ireland. I was tired and felt like I could have used another week with friends and family, but I am grateful for the days I had and look forward to November.

You can see more photos here.